Monday 5 November 2018

Mount Batur : Bali’s Most Popular Sunrise Hike

The Mountain

Mount Batur Bali is one of the sacred mountain according to Hindu believe. Located in Batur village of Kintamani District, this mountain which is only 171m above sea level (although my Suunto watch recorded 1766m), the mountain is relatively easy to hike, making it the most popular mountain in Bali, beating the higher and more challenging Mount Agung.
My Suunto recorded 1766m
 Famous for sunrise watching at it summit where one can scaled in approximate 2 hours, adrenaline junkies and tourists flock over to this mountain driving hundreds of hikers every day. As opposed to Mount Agung which stands at twice its height at 3031m and requires approximately 6 hours to reach its summit, Mount Batur is a much easier hike. Being mountain lovers, both Terry and I would love to challenge Mount Agung, however, as it was still erupting when we visited (August 2018), we had no choice but to choose Mount Batur instead. 



The Package

We booked our hike through our hotel owner, Mr. Made for RP 350,000 per pax, for a sharing tour. This is a fixed price through our hotel and no further negotiation can be done. However, this is also the cheapest I’ve come across according to the research I made before coming to Bali. The tour includes mountain guide, permit, pick up and drop off from the hotel, a bottle of mineral water, and refreshments before the hike and breakfast at the peak of the mountain. 

Tip: Most hotels and homestays in Bali would be able to help you make a booking for any kind of tour, even helping you get a driver if you don’t already have one. Otherwise, there are also tour companies all over Bali. In Ubud, you can easily find them along the main street, but they do come in different pricing, so make sure to bargain. We found out that a guy who were in our tour were charged RP 600,000 for the hike. Oops!

We were picked up at 2am (from Ubud) and we were the second batch to be picked up that morning. The fee was paid directly to the driver upon pick up, before we got into the SUV, and we were asked not to reveal to the other hikers how much we paid. Curious, I asked the driver about the fee charged to them and we were told that the guy who were picked up first (and already seated in the car) paid RP 600,000! Terry and I knew better not to tell him that we paid almost half of his. After all, why ruin the joy of other people when he had already paid for it? 

Tip: We were picked up from Ubud at 2am, however for those living in Uluwatu, Kuta or Sanur area, the pick-up time would be much earlier at 1.15am, 1.30am and 1.45am respectively. We suggest you have an early night (sleep in the evening) so that you are well rested for the trek.



The Journey

There were only four of us that day, and after picking up another couple from another villa, we drove to Batur village, where we stopped at a Coffee Place next to Pineh Colada Trekking. I did some googling while writing this blog post and it sees to be a tour company for Mount Batur sunrise hike, so I wonder if this was the company we engaged with. Honestly, as I booked through Mr. Made, I did not bother to find out which company it is.

At this coffee place, we were served some Indonesian banana pancakes and hot coffee (or tea). Once we were done, the driver then drove us to the foot of the mountain, reaching there at about 3.30am.

Banana pancake and hot beverage provided

We were introduced to the tour guide who then registered on our behalf.  There is a toilet near the parking area, and you can use it for RP 2,000 before you hike. The hike started at 4am from the parking after a short briefing by the guide.

The sign of the temple from the car park

Tip: The refreshments provided is a good last minute carbo-loading but could be too light for those with a big appetite, but do not rely on it to be your full source of energy. If deemed necessary, pack some snacks and drinks in your backpack. Terry and I didn’t bring any snacks as we find it unnecessary for a 2-hour summit, but we each brought a bottle of drinking water to keep ourselves hydrating. The tour company also ended up providing each one of us with 500ml water each. 


The Ascent

The first half an hour of the hike was pretty easy. Except having to climb in the dark and bracing the cold weather, the path from the parking area weaved through a forest at a gentle gradient, and it was all easy footwork in the beginning. After some time, the trail started to get steeper and we started hiking on slippery volcanic rubble. I was wearing my new Merrell hiking boots thankfully, which provided me with better grip. The terrain reminded me a lot of Mount Merapi and Mount Rinjani which were both Indonesian volcanoes. However, in comparison, Batur is the easiest.

Was told by the guide to feel the hot steam

This was somewhere in the middle of our ascent


Nonetheless, average fitness is still required, otherwise you may find it difficult. The other European couple in our group gave up half way after failing to keep up to our pace. The lady was out of breath after about an hour hiking and decided to make a u-turn and return to the foot of the mountain. The rest of us carried on with the guide.

Tip: The guide would often prepare some torch light if you don’t one but being well prepared, Terry and I brought our own head lights. We highly recommend that you do the same as your hands could be freed to assist you in your climb when it gets steep. A cheap head lights would only cost a few dollars and would do the trick as you would only need it for a couple of hour. You wouldn’t need a high quality one as the path isn’t that pitch dark since you would be hiking along hundreds of other hikers. 

The last hour to the summit is the steepest but still considered easy as compared to the more challenge Rinjani and Merapi. As you may have figured from how commercialised Mount Batur hike is, there are some warungs set up about 40minutes away to the summit. Here, you can purchase some food and beverage if you want some. The seller would definitely approach you to sell their items, but more often than not, they will leave you alone if you politely reject them.

Reached the summit at 5.30am

About 20 minutes from the summit, we came across a look out point with benches and warungs. I bet this is where those who couldn’t make it to the summit stop for their sunrise. As we were pretty much on time, we did not make any stop here but instead continued our journey towards the summit. We reached the top around 5.30am.

Waiting for the sun to rise



The Sunrise

Sunrise in Bali is around 6am, but your best bet to watch sunrise at the summit is by reaching latest 5.45am or earlier. There were already plenty of other hikers who reached before us and were already waiting patiently on the bench, facing the viewpoint.

Everyone ready for sunrise

As our guide brought us to an empty spot, he went on to prepare our breakfast in a small little hut not far away from our bench. He then emerged with a breakfast tray for the three of us, as I was setting up my camera for the sunrise. The toast and boiled eggs were free, but we would need to pay for drinks. Terry and I ordered a glass of hot chocolate for RP 30,000 since it was freezing cold the moment we stopped moving.

This glass of hot milo was so comforting when it was freezing cold up there

Toast and egg
Tip: The weather up there at the summit were pretty cold, so bring along a light windbreaker to keep yourself warm. You wouldn’t need it when you were ascending as your body generates heat from the physical activity. However, once you stopped walking at the summit, you will start feeling it.


Sun rising over the horizon


Breaking down
  
It's out!

Look at the golden sunrise

Happy :)

At sunrise, the sky turns from black to inky blue to pink and orange. It was a clear day and besides the majestic Mount Agung which is right across the valley, we were able to see as far as Mount Rinjani on Lombok Island. As the sun rose slowly, we enjoyed the panoramic view over Lake Batur and Gunung Agung, while trying to take as many beautiful shots as possible.

He hated this photo because he wasn't wearing any spectacles but I think he look great

Me with my messy hair but I love the lighting here

Tidied up my hair but there's some shadow on my face

The Descent

The mountain range from the side when we were descending

When the sun was finally out, and it was bright enough to make our way down without turning on the head lights, we started our descent. The hike down is more slippery than the ascent as we walked on loose gravels. However, I found it easier to slide down instead just like how I was taught during the descent from Mount Rinjani 2 years ago. However, be careful not to fall over the ridge!


Look how crowded it is

Heading towards the crater

On our way down, we made a stop at the crater, where the guide showed us the steam sipping through the wall of the volcano.

Ironically the signboard isn't at the summit

Blowing the burning incense

And the steam seep out thereafter

We then descended via another route which is different from the one we took on our way up. The last part of the track brought us through asphalt road which I had always hated. Honestly, I preferred the forest trail a lot better. Our descent took us equally as long as our ascent as we took our sweet time walking slowly on the asphalt road which is bad for our knees.

You can see from my Suunto record that we descended via a different route

Finally, at 8.30am, we reached our car where we were united with the other couple who had waited for us there. Our driver then dropped us at our hotel and we were back by 10.30am, just in time for our complimentary breakfast.

Our breakfast

Tip: Hotel breakfast generally ends by 10am, but Mr. Made was kind enough to promised us breakfast regardless of the time we were to return from our hike. If you foresee yourself not making it back on time for your hotel complimentary breakfast, do talk to the management for re-arrangement or book a night’s stay without breakfast. You won’t go hungry in Bali after all, as food is easily found everywhere on the street.  



The Cost & How To Get There

We booked our hike through our hotel owner, Mr. Made for RP 350,000 per pax, for a sharing tour. The tour includes mountain guide, permit, pick up and drop off from the hotel, a bottle of mineral water, refreshments before the hike and breakfast at the peak of the mountain.



The foot of the mountain is about 1.5 to 2 hours away from Ubud center. The entire hike takes about 4.5 hours, and you should be able to reach your hotel at Ubud before lunch time. We reach our hotel at 10.30am and still had time to take a shower, had late breakfast and another half a day to cover some places in Ubud. If you stay in Kuta or Seminyak, do estimate additional one hour to the travelling time required. 




Epilogue

After doing the hike, it’s safe to say that the hike is a pretty pleasant thing to do if you have a morning to spare in Bali. The climb was not challenging, and we think anybody with a relatively good fitness condition can make it. The ascent took us less than 2 hours and the descent about equally the same. With stop at the summit and crater, the entire hike took us only 4.5 hours. The view was pretty good, although not as impressive as Mount Rinjani, Mount Merapi and the famous Mount Bromo. However, the package isn’t expensive (we paid RP 350,000 per person which is about RM66 / SGD22 per person) and I would say it’s quite value for money considering all the things included – a guide, transport, registration fee and permit, refreshments and breakfast. It’s value for money as long as you don’t pay anything more than that.

Only 2 hours to the summit

Would I recommend the hike? If you are an experience hiker and up to challenge, I would recommend tackling Mount Agung instead if it stops erupting and is open for hiking. I believe that’s the real deal. Besides, there would be less crowd and you wouldn’t feel like you are sharing the the mountain with hundreds other hikers, like what I felt in Batur. However, Mount Agung is still currently closed for hikes, and unlikely to reopened soon, so Mount Batur is likely your best alternative. 

An easy hike for sunrise
If all you care about is getting a scenic sunrise without much effort, the Mount Batur sunrise hike is perfect for you if you don’t mind sacrificing your sleep. All you need is to be fit enough and be sure to wear appropriate clothing and footwear. Enjoy hiking Mount Batur! 

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