Bau: Wind Cave, Fairy Cave and Bao Ling Shan Temple – Smelly? Or Pretty?

Most people are familiar with Kuching, the capital city of Sarawak. But how about Bau? My memory on my school days brings me back to my history lesson when I first came across the word Bau – a small gold mining town in Sarawak. Ring any bell yet, fellow Malaysian?

Located just an hour away from Kuching, Bau is an inland district about 35 kilometres by road from Kuching.  It has an area of 884.40 square kilometres, sharing a common border with Kalimantan Barat, Indonesia. Bau town is also known as the 'Gold Town of Sarawak' due to its rich gold ore deposits and gold-mining activities in the past.  However, gold mining operations in all the mines had ceased before the turn of this century as the remaining gold deposits deep underground was difficult and expensive to extract.

Caving is one of the main tourism in Bau

Last February, I had the chance to visit Bau during a short weekend trip to Kuching, together with Kenny, Fenny, Jesy, YG, Ykai, Yong, and Terry (basically the members of Max Mountain Club). I initially didn’t know we would be concentrating our trip in Bau instead of Kuching town, but after reading about the places it has to offer, I wasn’t surprised with this turn of events. Why so? Well, because they are mainly nature!

But but but… before we go further about what to do in Bau, aren’t you curious about the origin of the name “Bau”? Here’s a little bit of interesting information on how the town got its name. 

How Bau Got Its Name

Before Bau was called Bau, it was once known as “Mau San”. Gold mining was already a well establish activity back then, mainly operated by the Chinese miners since 1820. In 1841, James Brooke was installed as White Rajah of Sarawak, and since then he started imposing taxes, prohibiting direct trading of opium and wine with foreign countries, as well as prohibiting direct export of gold and antimony. This has cause dissatisfaction among the gold miners. However, what truly enraged them was when the Rajah started allowing the formation of the Borneo Company to mine gold in Bau, in 1856. The rebellion started on 18th February 1857, when 600 men paddled down Sarawak river from Pangkalan Bau to Kuching. They attacked Kuching and the Astana in the early morning of 19th February. Somehow, James Brooke manage to escape by swimming across the Sarawak river. The Chinese Miners burnt down the Astana, then killed and beheaded 5 Europeans.

When news broke about the rebellion, the then Tuan Muda (Charles Brooke) with the aid of Iban warriors from second Division (Skrang) came to avenge the death of the Europeans. Outnumbered, the chinese miners retreated from Kuching to Bau.  On 22th February 1857, they retreated upriver, but were attacked and defeated at Jugan Sinawan by the combined forces of Ibans and Malays loyal to Brooke. Hundreds of miners were killed, including their leader Liu Shan Bang. As dead and decomposed bodies were found everywhere, the place where this happened is now called 'Buso' (a spelling variation of “busuk” which means rotten or stinky in Malay language).

The remaining 100 miners who survived the attack fled to Sambas, Indonesia with their families and were never found again.  However, the families who have lost their men were unable to escape to Indonesia and had hidden in the Ghost Cave or fled into nearby jungle. The soldiers lit a huge fire at the entrance of the cave and there were burnt or suffocated to death. The 'Mau San' Chinese Mining Settlement was also set on fire on 25th February 1857. About 2000 people were killed.  The burnt bodies in Ghost Cave and decomposed bodies around 'Mau San' produced bad smell for weeks. Because of the bad smell, it was believed that the town has since been called “Bau”, which means smelly in Malay Language.

There we go. A (not so) brief history of how Bau got its name. Interesting, though pretty dark isn’t it?

How To Get There

To get to Bau, you will first need to fly into Kuching. A one-way flight from Kuala Lumpur takes approximately 2 hours while flight departing from Johor Bahru or Singapores takes only 1.5 hour. From Kuching, Bau is only less than an hour drive from the airport.

Taken on my flight from JB to Kuching

We booked our return flight with Air Asia, departing from Johor Bahru for only RM160 (SGD54 / USD40) per person. There are times when Air Asia releases promotional tickets, so do look out, especially this year, since they are collaborating with Sarawak Tourism Board for Visit Sarawak 2019 Campaign. 

Early morning flight with AirAsia

From Kuching airport, we were picked up by Momo and his friend who would be our tour-guides-cum-drivers throughout our 3D2N trip. If you are taking public transportation, two bus companies (Sarawak Transport Company and Bau Transport Company) run regular service to Bau town. From there, you can take a connecting bus service if you wish to visit the caves, and you can ask to be dropped off at the road junction to the respective caves and walk approximately 1.5km to the caves. I would recommend hiring a car if you are in small group. 

Is hitchhiking a good idea? I'm not sure... Let's stick to driving

Where To Stay

The most logical place to based yourself apart from Bau, would be Kuching town itself, especially if you rent or hire a car. This is due to more lodging and food options in Kuching town. After all, the travelling time from Kuching downtown to Bau itself is just less than an hour. In our case, however, we were offered to stay in Momo’s place which is strategically located in Bau itself. Except for Mount Santubong, the rest of the places we visited is in Bau itself. We therefore saved on accommodation costs and travelling time.

Ps: Thanks Momo for your warm hospitality!

Where To Go?

Wind Cave (also known as Gua Angin in Malay and 风洞 in Chinese)

Bau is the home of popular limestone caves, therefore the top activity is none other than cave exploration and one of the most popular cave here is Wind Cave. Located only 45 minutes away from Kuching center, it was our first stop of the day after some simple local breakfast.

Wind Cave

Can you see what's written?

The cave was named named after the constant cool breeze that blows throughout the cavern. Unlike Fairy Cave which is rough but has a light filled cavernous main chamber, Wind Cave is a series of three unlit tubular, smooth limestone cave, formed roughly 60 million years ago during the Jurassic-Cretaceous period, the age of dinosaurs. An underground stream flows through the cave which joins the Sungai Sarawak Kanan on the northern end.

Welcome to Wind Cave

Welcome to Win dCave

Boardwalk. It's quite slippery

Trail guide

This 6-hectares cave is equipped with boardwalk along the three passages. The ticket can be purchased at the admin office near the car park, but the visitors will have to enter from the main entrance of Passage 1 where the Customer Service Centre is located. Here, the staffs will check you entrance ticket, and check that you are wearing proper footwear. Slippers and flip flop are not allowed since it is very slippery.

Dont's for visitors to take not

Let our adventure begins

Information boards right at the entrance

Going in from Passage No. 1

We entered through Passage No. 1 and walk along the boardwalk, and as we entered deeper and deeper into the cave, it gets darker and gloomier until it finally turned pitch dark.

Bring your headlights

It's pitch dark inside

   

Inside the cave

While inside the caves, we had to switch on our headlights and torch light to be able to navigate our way. Yellow reflective stickers line the route and there are railings on both sides of the path, so you wouldn't fall off or get lost. There are information boards along the path which provide information on the species living in the cave, including swiftlets and insect-eating bats. Do bring along torch lights or head lights to shine your way. You may also consider wearing a hat to protect yourself from possible droppings of bats guano.

Bats

See the bats?

Close up

Swiflets

 

Eggs in their nest

 

So cute!

The entire walk from Passage No. 1 to Passage No. 3 then turning out from Passage No. 2 took us less than an hour, where we completed the whole loop.

The end of the tubular cave

Exit

It's a loop, we were back to the entrance

The short duration needed to cover Wind Cave makes it an ideal combo package with the following two attractions – Bao Ling Shan Temple and Fairy Cave.

How to get there:

Address: 94000 Bau, Sarawak, Malaysia

Opening hours: 8.30pm to 4.30 pm 

Admission: RM1 for Malaysians, RM5 for non-Malaysians

Bao Ling Shan Temple (also known as 石隆门保灵山佛庙 in Chinese)

On our way to Fairy Cave, we made quick stop at a cave temple, the Bao Ling Shan Temple, which is only 4-minute drive away from Wind Cave and is on the way to Fairy Cave. The name Bao Ling Shan literally translates (please correct me if I’m wrong) to “Spirit Protector Mountain” (Bao = Protect, Ling = Spirit, Shan = Mountain), which is actually referring the mountain where the cave is located.

Bao Ling Shan

A temple built in a cave at the foot of the mountain

The temple itself is set inside of a small cave at the foot of the mountain. Stairs are built to facilitate public to walk up to the cave and worship the Buddha which is housed within.

Stairs built at the entrance

To enter the temple, visitors are required to remove their foot wear and enter barefooted. There is a bench located at the wooden stairs in front of the entrance, and you may place your shoes at the rack provided. The interior of the cave is clean, bright and cooling. At of the time of writing, admission to the temple is free of charge, and visitor may donate as they wish (as with the practice of other Chinese temples).

Remove your footwear before you enter

Everyone remove their shoes before going up

The one and only Buddha statue housed within was first found in the Sungai Lundu by several indigenous boys. The owner of Bao Ling Shan Temple heard about the discovery and purchased the Buddha statue from them, in hope of placing in the temple to attract visitors. The origin of the statue is unknown but is believed to have drifted from a neighbouring country after being pulled out to sea by the tsunami caused by the 2012 Indian Ocean earthquake. Based on the statues look, it is possible it came from as far away as Thailand. The statue is made of fiberglass and was still intact when it was found.

The Buddha statue

Rock formations

Besides the mysterious Buddha statue, another main highlight of the cave is mystical rock formations in the cave, which resembles two monks' images. One is in the Buddha ceremony, and the other is meditating quietly. There is also a huge megalith, which is firmly supported by small stone pillars.

Can you sense the inner peace?

Since I’m Buddhist, I felt a sense of tranquillity as I entered the cave with soft chants playing in the background. The entire visit didn’t take long as the area is small. Since it’s conveniently located at the intersection of Jalan Serikin, it was a convenient stopover on the way to Fairy Cave.

Goodbye and to our next destination!

How to get there:

Address: Q509, Jalan Serikin, Bau, Kuching, Sarawak

Opening hours: 7:30 am to 5 pm (Mon-Fri), 7:30 in the morning to 6:30 in the evening (Sat-Sun)

Admission: Free

Fairy Cave (also known as Gua Pari in Malay and 仙洞 in Chinese)

Our supposedly third stop of the day was Fairy Cave. Googled “what to do in Bau” or “what to do in Kuching”, Fairy Cave often shows up in the list together with Wind Caves. It was immensely popular among the locals and foreign visitors for its unique stalactite and stalagmite formation which resemble figures and animals, and most tourist would combine both on a half-day trip from Kuching.

Fairy Cave

Fees

Its steep cliffs also renders to its popularity among rock climbing enthusiasts. There are eight separate walls with over 80 climbs in varying levels of difficulty, ranging from 5-8 French Grading. All climbs have glued in (Hilti RE 500) and fixed hangers on expansion bolts certified by International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA). If you’re not into rock climbing, you can explore the cave itself as there are marked concrete footpaths and steps through the cave. Of course, there are different trails with varying difficulties with more challenging one requiring specialised spelunking equipment and knowledge, so pick the one according to your fitness and preference.

four-storey concrete staircase

Access to the cave is via a four-storey concrete staircase which brings you to the cave entrance. In the entrance is a stalagmite resembling Goddess Guan Yin, to which the cave takes its name from.

Sounds interesting isn’t it? Unfortunately, during our visit, we regrettably found the cave closed since November 2018. It seemed to be closed temporarily until further notice. Here’s the official announcement posted on both the guard house and in Sarawak Forestry website:

Closure announcement

You may want to give them a call before your visit to check whether it is open for visit. 

How to get there:

Address: 94000 Bau, Sarawak, Malaysia

Opening hours: 8.30pm to 4.30 pm 

Admission: 

➤ Malaysian – RM1 for adult | Free for senior citizen, disabled person, and children up to 8 years old 

➤ Non-Malaysian – RM5 for adult and senior citizen | RM3 for disabled person | RM2 for children aged 6-8 years old | Free entrance for children below 6 years old

The Rest of Our Trip

Second half of Day 1 - Mount Singai >>> click here

Since Fairy Cave is closed, we ended up hiking Mount Singai as proposed by Momo. Well, once a hiker, forever a hiker? The hike up and down Mount Singai took us roughly 3 hours in total. By the time we are done, we drove back to Momo’s house to prepare for barbeque dinner.

Day 2 - Mount Santubong >>> click here 

We have a pretty ambitious plan for our second day as Kenny planned to cover 3 places in day. However, luck wasn’t at our side that day and we only managed to conquer Mount Santubong due to the heavy rain which delayed our time. 

It’s a pity that we couldn’t visit Bako National Park or Kubah National Park, but that makes another excuse to revisit Kuching in the future. Besides, I have yet to try all the famous local food.

Day 3 – Flight Home 

The last day of our Kuching trip is rather short as we needed to catch the 1.30pm flight home. With only half a day, we didn’t plan for anything but simple breakfast at a local coffee shop and some usual touristy photo in front of the Cat Statues. I do hope I had more time, so maybe a second trip in the future?

Sarawak: More To Discover

If you ever plan a trip to Kuching, apart from Wind Cave and Fairy Cave, here are some nearby places of attraction which you might want to slot into your itinerary. In conjuction with Visit Sarawak Campaign 2019, let’s discover more of Sarawak!

➤Tasik Biru (26km/40min from Kuching | 2.5km/5min from Wind Cave)

Tasik Biru (or Blue Lake) is also one of the popular tourist attraction in Bau and can be easily combined with Wind Cave and Fairy Cave for a half day trip. This man-made lake is a result of gold mining back when Bau was a booming gold mining town and it was names Blue Lake because of the way the water reflects the sky. However, due to the high level of arsenic, visitors are warned not to swim in the lake, or fish or even drink the water. Plan your trip here in October, where the annual sail-boat competition (Bau Jong Regatta) is held. 

➤Mount Santubong and Sarawak Cultural Village (40km/53min from Kuching | 67km/1hour 25min from Wind Cave)

Probably the most popular mountain in Kuching. The peak provides the view of both the South China Sea and Kuching city. More about it here. 

Just next to the foot of the mountain is Sarawak Cultural Village, aunique award-winning living museum offering and exciting and informative introduction to local cultures and lifestyles.  There are nine authentic replica buildings represent every major ethnic group in Sarawak, each is staffed with members of their respective ethnic groups, in traditional costume, carrying out traditional activities.  

➤Mount Singai and Catholic Memorial Pilgrimage Center (25km/38min from Kuching | 18km/26min from Wind Cave)

More about it here

➤Semenggoh Nature Reserve (13km/20min from Kuching | 35km/50 min from Wind Cave)

Located barely fifteen minutes from Kuching, this nature reserve is a sanctuary to the orangutans, whom are known for their ability to learn sign language and utilise rudimentary tools in their daily lives. Here, visitors can learn about the orangutans’ habitat, and the importance of conservation in protecting this species from extinction. Aimed at reintroducing these apes to the natural environment, Semenggoh Nature Reserve is one of the only sanctuaries in the world where these intelligent creatures can roam free without restriction. The nature reserve also trains these apes in basic survival skills as most of them are rescued at a young age from dangerous conditions. 

➤Bako National Park (30km/40 min from Kuching | 60km/1hour 20min from Wind Cave)

This national park is the first and oldest (also the smallest) in Sarawak, and is where you can find the proboscis monkeys, long-tailed macaque monkeys, silvered leaf monkeys, bearded pigs and flying lemurs. There are 16 colour coded jungle trails which offer a range of walking and hiking options, taking you through jungle, past waterfalls, out to mangroves and secluded beaches. 

This was meant to be our second itinerary for our second day in Kuching. However, our Mount Santubong hike was delayed thanks to the heavy downpour and we didn’t have enough time to cover Bako at all. What a pity!

➤Kubah National Park and Gunung Serapi (30km/42min from Kuching |42km/54min from Wind Cave)

Another destination which we scrapped off on our second day was this National Park, again due to time constraint. There are three mountains in the park, namely Mount Serapi, Mount Selang and Mount Sendok. One of the 5 main trails of the national park also leads you to Matang Wildlife Centre where it acts as a house or a habitat for endangered wildlife, such as orangutans, sambar deers, hornbills, and sun bears.

➤Serikin Border Trading Market (47km/1hour from Kuching | 20km/25min from Wind Cave)

Located 3km from Sarawak-Kalimantan Border, this weekend market is popular among the local, tourists, and Indonesian for its border trading among Malaysia and Indonesia. This is a place you may consider for some souvenir shopping, and if you’re lucky enough, there are some stall that actually still sell butod (sago worm).

➤Shipwreck Diving

Divers can explore the looming figures of wrecked ships laying at the bottom of the ocean’s floor. These large remnants of history are the products the Pearl Harbour attack during World War II when the Japanese pushed their forces towards South East Asia with Borneo as one of the targets. The plan however, was intercepted by the American and Dutch allies, who attacked the Japanese warships using their submarine. The area is now one of the most beautiful scuba diving spots, thriving with marine life and corals. There are approximately 19 wrecks located off Kuching’s coast, with the nearest one just 50 to 75 minutes by speedboat from Santubong. The best time to dive is between April to September. 

There are plenty more things to do in Kuching and Bau, but I only listed the ones I think is more interesting. Hopefully, one day I’ll be back to see more.

Admission here is so cheap

Epilogue

Being my first visit to Sarawak, this Kuching trip was my virgin experience of Sarawak, the largest state in Malaysia. Though Miri is more attractive on paper for mountain lovers like me (think Mulu Cave, Niah Cave and Mulu Pinnacles), turned out Kuching has its own share of natural beauty as well. I’m always a nature lover, so it’s no surprise that I enjoy exploring the caves.



It’s regrettable that Fairy Cave is currently close to visitors, but for those who have half to a day to spare from exploring Kuching City, a side trip to cover Wind Cave and Tasik Biru is a good idea to break away from city vibe. Have more time to spare? Hike up Mount Singai or Mount Santubong if you are into hiking, or visit Semenggoh Wildlife Centre for a chance to see the orangutans. After all, Kuching isn’t just about food and the cats, you know? *wink*

More about Mount Singai and Mount Santubong in my next posts!