Sri Lanka | Dondra Temple – The Dark and Ugly Side of A Otherwise Beautiful Temple

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Located in the heart of Dondra city, Dondra Temple or more appropriately known as Uthpalawanna Sri Upulvan Devalaya or Tenawaram Temple is one of the city's oldest and most famous historic complex.

The yellow arch entrance

Elephant wall

The entrance is a vaulted arch, painted in yellow colour and the first thing your eye will catch as you enter, is the immense standing statue of Lord Buddha. Although, it is not an ancient statue, it is one of the tallest statues of Lord Buddha in Sri Lanka, at 50m in height. The central building is a Hindu temple which is elegantly constructed. This 3-storeys building is painted in blue to represent the God Vishnu, its roof is made by copper tiles, and the walls are decorated with intricate floral designs. You will see many pigeons flying around this building. The temple ground also consists of ancient monument but taking photographs inside is strictly prohibited.

Central building

Pigeons

This main shrine was built to honour Lord Vishnu, a Hindu God who became closely linked with Upulvan, the guardian deity of Sri Lanka. Upulvan is believed by Sri Lanka Buddhists to be a guardian of Buddhism in the country. Although the cult of Upulvan was widespread during medieval times, this God was identified with Vishnu during the late 15th century, due to the close resemblance between the two. Today, Lord Vishnu is depicted in Buddhist temples and shrines throughout the country and is widely revered as the island’s protector.

Statue of Upulvan

Statue of Upulvan

Visitors are required to dressed modestly as this is a place of worship and footwear must be removed before entering the temple compound. Although, no photographs were permitted within the main Vishnu Temple, there was no restriction in capturing other areas on camera.

Main shrine

Main shrine

Further inside the compound is the Dhammapada Temple, which is a Buddhist temple. There is a Buddhist hall of horrors, where long corridors are illustrated with ghastly depictions of Buddhist hell. This is my favourite part of the temple.

Dhammapada Temple

Hall of horrors

Walls painted in buddhist depiction of karma and hell

Many interesting stories here

Depiction of Buddha under the bodhi tree

More paintings

Birth of buddha

However, one particular unpleasant thing about this temple is the fact that they house two elephants in quite an inhumane way. As we entered from the main entrance,  we saw two elephants chained, one to a big tree and the other in a bathing pool. They are so tightly chained that not even a one-step movement is possible. One of the rear ankles is chained from the back, one of the front ankles from the front. It is impossible to step forward, sideways or lie down.

Elpehant spotted being chained

Poor animal. This is cruel!

A quick research on the internet reveals many concern from previous visitors who observed the same thing. The elephants were constantly swinging their body which indicates the extreme level of distress and emotional stress. This is all due to their inability to move around. They used to live in the infamous Pinnavala Orphanage and were illegally donated to the temple where they are suffering chained through their days now as living objects of a never ending, cruel exhibition. Their names are Lasandha (female) and the Kalana (male)! 

Although the temple is a worth a visit, this part of the “exhibit” is not to be supported. I found a petition online to call for the release of these elephants, but sadly these poor creatures still seem to be enslaved in the temple. If you are reading this, I hope you could sign this petition to help the elephants! If you are visiting, please voice it out to the temple staffs on how cruel it is to treat the elephants this way. Hopefully one day, they would be released.  

Sign the petition here! 

Getting To Dondra Temple 

A sidetrip to Dondra is pretty easy to do from Mirissa, which is just 30 minutes away. Although you can get to Dondra by public transport, having a tuk tuk to drive you around Dondra is easier and more convenient. With a couple of travel companion to split the cost with you, it would not burn a hole in your wallet. There are plenty of tuk tuk driver in town, and you can bargain for a good price to drive you to and from Dondra and bringing you around Dondra – to the light house and the temple.  

Uthpalawanna Sri Upulvan Devalaya

Address: A2, Dondra, Sri Lanka 

Opening hours: 5am – 7.15pm 

Admission: Free 

Tuk tuk from Mirissa to Dondra: 30 minutes, LKR 2300 to/from Mirissa and around Dondra (sharing by 3 persons) 

Recommended time in the temple: 1 hour  

Final Words 

I’ve been to a fair bit of temple in Asia but Dondra Temple displays a unique combination of Hindu and Buddhist culture (but is primarily a shrine to the Hindu god Vishnu), something we don’t see often in other temples.  

Unfortunately, Dondra Temple is also the home to a couple of distressed temple elephant, which isn’t something to be supported. If you do go, politely make your concerns heard. Perhaps one day they will release the elephants to their natural habitat.